40 ‘Wonder-full’ years of Marc: Marc Jacobs Spring 2024 NYFW show

“So much of this man’s magic touch relies on his inherent sense of humour, his love for childlike play, and his outsized vision.”  

A few weeks ago, we were lucky enough to witness yet another spectacle from the brilliant Marc Jacobs. Falling outside of the fashion calendar, Parson’s graduate Marc took us inside his dressing-up box, which in this case was found in the Park Avenue Armoury. The garments portrayed the theme of evolution, celebrating 40 years of the magnificent brand. Unlike other fashion houses’ birthdays, Marc paid tribute to the growth his brand has experienced. The show lacked the ‘walk down memory lane feel', which (although nostalgic and compelling) can often be overdone and slightly boring.  

Bright lights warmed the stage and with the accompaniment of gentle piano music and a soft-beige setting, the audience was calm, relaxed and slightly sleepy. The set felt like a playful dream. The ‘Wonder Years’ stage featured abnormally large sculptures - a set of foldable tables and chairs, created by the late Robert Therrien. These props created an illusion. The odd proportions made the models look like dainty dolls one would find in a vintage toy chest. This idea was then solidified by the doll-like behaviour of the models. They walked stiffly, with their arms glued to their sides whilst taking small, shuffle-like steps around the room. The models and the garments were rigid and portrayed a sense of being unbreakable – much like the brand itself. Marc Jacobs has always been a delightful brand, never controversial or fiery... just right.  

Credit: Craig Adderley @ Pexels

Marc's Dolls were decorated with heavy, black-eye makeup and extremely blown-out hair. In true Jacobs style, the clothes were of exaggerated proportions which complimented the exaggerated sculptures, as well as amplifying the delicateness of his models. Many of the garments highlighted Jacobs’ love for the 60s, symbolising love for his childhood. The audience marvelled over traditional four-pocket, three-quarter-length jackets, and skirt suits. Pussy-bow dresses were paired with accessories representative of a more modern Marc, such as the Venetia bag. Exposed seams and pulled pleats could be considered as a representation of the skill that goes into each design.

To draw the curtain on the last four decades of one of America’s most prolific brands, we say thank you to Marc for finding a way to balance quirkiness with softness, helping us to incorporate our inner child into the clothes we wear. Thank you, Mr. Jacobs, we can't wait for the next 40 years! 

“By examining the memorable and the mundane, we abstract and exaggerate with a disorienting familiarity in our desire to express something naïve and elegant.”